La pensión y la aldea de Soesto con el mar al fondo, vistas desde el aire

Travel guide

Soesto Beach and the Costa da Morte: a local guide to the area

Our local guide: Soesto Beach, surfing, Laxe, the megaliths and the lighthouses of the Costa da Morte, explained from the doorstep of the guesthouse.

Soesto Beach, a short walk from the house

Our beach is a wild 850-metre stretch of fine white sand, open to the Atlantic between hills and meadows, with a small stream flowing into one end. It is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in Galicia and is part of a protected area: that is why it is reached along wooden boardwalks that protect the dunes.

From the guesthouse you'll be there in under ten minutes by car (there is a car park by the beach) or on a leisurely twenty-minute walk down to the village of Soesto. No promenade, no buildings: here the show is the beach itself, with the Laxe lighthouse drawn on the horizon.

Aerial view of the sandy beach of Soesto, in Laxe

Surf and sea: waves all year round

Soesto Beach is one of the best-known surf spots on the Costa da Morte. Its orientation picks up the north-west swell nicely and, with powerful waves and near-constant wind, it is a beach that rewards those who can read the sea.

At the end of August it hosts rounds of the Spanish surf championship: a great time to watch top-level surfing. If you're a beginner, surf schools and board hire are available in Laxe and nearby villages in season; ask us when you arrive and we'll point you in the right direction for the day.

Surfers walking towards the sea at Soesto Beach

Laxe, the fishing village next door

Less than ten minutes away by car (4 km), Laxe is the area's hub: a fishing port, seafront promenade, sheltered town beach, cafés and everything you need for your stay — supermarkets, pharmacy, bakery and restaurants serving fresh fish from the bay.

Two must-sees: the walk out to the Laxe lighthouse, with open views over the Atlantic, and the Furna da Espuma, a sea cave that booms as the swell crashes in. And when the sea is calm, the tiny Praia dos Cristais hides sea glass polished by the waves among its sand.

Traba, Sisargas and a still-wild coast

Ten kilometres to the north, Traba beach and its lagoon make up one of the most striking natural landscapes in Galicia: dunes, salt marsh and a huge, almost unspoilt beach. Beside it, the Penedos de Pasarela e Traba are a protected landscape, and just off the coast the Sisargas islands rise as a seabird sanctuary.

It is a paradise for walkers and for anyone travelling with binoculars: ringed plovers, sanderlings and cormorants depending on the season.

White sand and Atlantic scenery at Soesto Beach

5,000 years of history: Dombate dolmen and Borneiro hill fort

A quarter of an hour away by car, in Cabana de Bergantiños, stands the Dombate dolmen, known as the cathedral of megalithism: more than five thousand years of history under a hillside overlooking the ria of Corme e Laxe.

Very close by is the Castro de Borneiro, an excavated hill-fort settlement in a wood of eucalyptus and chestnut trees. Together they tell the story of the first people of this coast, long before the Romans called it the end of the world.

The Camiño dos Faros: the lighthouse trail

The Costa da Morte is best travelled from lighthouse to lighthouse. The Camiño dos Faros links Malpica and Fisterra along the coast in some 200 kilometres split into eight stages, and the stage from Laxe to Arou passes right by our beach.

You don't need to do it all: any stretch between the Laxe lighthouse, Traba beach, Punta Nariga or the Cabo Vilán lighthouse (the first in Spain to run on electric light) makes an unforgettable walk. And every sunset from a lighthouse on this coast is out of this world.

Day trips by car: distances from the guesthouse

All distances are approximate, by road, from the guesthouse door. Any of these day trips still gets you home for a relaxed dinner.

  • Soesto Beach2 km · 5 min
  • Laxe4 km · 8 min
  • Traba Beach10 km · 12 min
  • Dombate dolmen15 km · 18 min
  • Castro de Borneiro16 km · 20 min
  • Camariñas30 km · 35 min
  • Muxía and Santuario da Virxe da Barca40 km · 40 min
  • Cabo Vilán lighthouse40 km · 45 min
  • Fisterra70 km · 1 h 15
  • A Coruña75 km · 1 h
  • Santiago de Compostela85 km · 1 h 15

Muxía and Fisterra are the two ends of the Camino facing the ocean; if you can only choose one, go to Fisterra for sunset.

Terrace of Pensión Playa de Soesto overlooking the valley

When to come and how to get here

The guesthouse is open all year. Summer brings calmer seas and beach days; spring and autumn are the best seasons for surfing and hiking; and winter delivers spectacular seas and the coast almost to yourself.

Getting here is easy by car: from A Coruña (75 km) or Santiago de Compostela (85 km) you come via Carballo and the AC-552 to Laxe. The nearest airports are A Coruña and Santiago, both just over an hour away. Once here, a car is the easiest way to explore the Costa da Morte.

Facade of Pensión Playa de Soesto, in Soesto (Laxe)

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